An Italian trip in the heart of Toronto

It’s probably every wine lover’s dream to visit Italy. But sometimes Italy comes to you. I had the opportunity to visit a wine fair here in Toronto, and ran into Massimo from Enio Ottavini.
With great knowledge and obvious love for the wines, he guided me through the selection he had with him.

The first wine, Strati, is fresh, clear, with distinct minerality and lovely fruit. It’s 100% Bombino Bianco, also known as Pagadebit, a grape most often used in blends and has a reputation for producing relatively neutral flavoured wines that are not very aromatic but can have some citrus or herbaceous notes.
The winemakers at Enio Ottaviani obviously didn’t read that memo. No, it is not a ”big” wine with a whole bouquet of aromas such as Muscat etc. But it is clean, clear, fresh with clear aromas of apple, lemon balm, grass and herbs. The flavour is fruity, with notes of both melon and grapefruit. The grape has been allowed to unfold, bringing out all the delicate flavours and aromas hidden within.
The next wine is a 100% Grechetto Gentile, also a grape often used in blends. But here the winemaker let’s it takes centre stage and the result is a fruity wine with aromas of both citrus and more exotic fruits. The flavour is fresh and clear, but with more depth and complexity. The minerality is clear but we also have some more ripe fruits and a wonderful roundness. I am transported to the beach in Italy and search for Calamari Fritti or other Frutti di Mare that would be perfect with this elegant wine.
The last wine is red. Solo Rosso made from 100% Sangiovese. The colour is deep red and the aroma an explosion of fruit, spices, roasted nuts, and do I sense some chocolate there? The flavour is like the aroma, complex and rich. It lingers and I feel both allspice and cloves as well as herbs like basil and tarragon. When I close my eyes, I’m transported from the raw cold weather of Toronto to sunny Italy. This is a wine that can be enjoyed on its own, but would also be a great companion to a spicy salami or a piece of fine meat.

Unfortunately, there will be no trip to Italy this year. But with the help of Enio Ottaviani’s wines, and a trip to the deli down the street, I’ll be able to create a piece of this sun-drenched country at home.

Maria Scharffenberg
Sommelier and Teacher