A ghostly good Zinfandel

Sometimes when you taste a wine, you feel the love and pride of the winemaker in the glass.
Every drop is filled with respect for the grape and the land. Carrying the story of hours of labour and knowledge passed down through generations. At a wine fair here in Toronto, I came across just such a wine. Pouring the wine for me with convincing enthusiasm and great knowledge is Farrah Felten-Jolley, sixth generation winemaker from Klinker Brick.

I am advised to focus on the Zinfandel, an advice I promptly follow as it is, admittedly, a favourite grape. However, I am a little nervous as the Zinfandel from California I have tried so far have been jam like sugar bombs. But not this one! Their ”Old Vine Zinfandel” skilfully highlights everything I love about this grape; dark fruits, hints of chocolate, and flavours of plums and spices.

The second glass Farrah pours is ”Marisa Vineyard” The same lovely Zinfandel, but this time from a single field that has stood proud for over 90 years. If the first wine was a Mrs, this is a Lady. The aroma is full of blackberries, blueberries and a hint of tobacco. The flavour is equally graceful and the dark berries are joined by bay leaf and black pepper.

However, the family’s pride and joy is ”Old Ghost” . The name of the wine comes from the fog that rises from the ground in the vineyard, giving it a ghostly appearance. The family myth is that the ”old ghost” takes care of the vineyard. When Farrah pours the dark red wine into the glass, I understand her big smile doing it. The colour is deep and intensive. The flavour is dense, dark and rich. The characteristic black fruits like blackberries and blueberries are joined by vanilla, tobacco and spices like sage, basil and chocolate. All of these aromas are present in the flavour, but there we also find black pepper, cloves and cherries. The tannins are present, giving structure and character, but are clad in the smoothest of velvet.
About the theory of the ghosts taking care of the vineyard? I won’t argue, because Old Ghost is a wine that is somewhat out of the ordinary. Smooth with character. A wine that can be enjoyed now, but is worth buying a few extra bottles to put away for the future.

On the vineyard’s website you can read: The Feltens and Klinker Brick have one goal…produce world-class wine. In my humble opinion, they have definitely succeeded. I am delighted to have tasted their wines and look forward to renewing our acquaintance if and when our paths cross again.

Maria Scharffenberg
Sommelier and Teacher