A wonderful Sublime delight

Wine is essentially chemistry, physics and biology united in a beautiful dance. All parts are interdependent and a minimal change anywhere in the chain irreversibly affects the whole result.
Francisco Batel-Marques, owner of Quinta dos Abibes, is a microbiologist by training.A knowledge and mindset he has brought in to the world of wine. When we meet, we are first united in the joy and love of old books as we flip through winemaking manuals from the turn of the century. Yet another testament to the fact that this is and remains a subject that draws on the past in its quest to constantly evolve and find new paths. But soon enough we are back in the present and focusing on the wines.
The vinery is surrounded by exemplary well-kept vineyards, planted with both the indigenous grapes Arinto and Baga as well as international classics such as Chardonnay and others.
Francisco is affectionately known as “the professor” and as he guides us through the winemaking process, the scientist is clearly visible. Down in the cellar by the barrels, we talk at length about not only French vs American oak, but also details such as how the width of each board in the barrel affects the development of the wine.
Back in the tasting room, beautifully located on the second floor with a wonderful view of the vineyard, we then taste some of the wines.
The first is a sparkling, brut nature from Arinto and Baga. Degogagermont has taken place just 48 hours earlier and I expect a slightly shaken wine that may not be entirely in its favour. But in the glass, elegance, balance, fruit, flowers, acidity and minerals meet me in perfect harmony! Despite a sugar content of a minimal 0.3 gr/l, this is an elegant lady who makes me think of balmy summer evenings and fresh fruit salads. In my little notebook, I can’t help but note a little heart with this wine.

A little later, when we have all moved to a nearby restaurant, I get to try the big sister: Sublime 2011, Brut Natur, 100% Arinto, which has rested 8 years on the lees. Even this has only a modest 0.3 sugar content. But the aroma! The flavour! The name, Sublime, is a perfect description of this elegant wine that only grows the longer it rests in the glass. The aroma is full of buttery brioche, fruits and fresh herbs. The flavour is full-bodied with notes of flowers, brioche and sweets. It’s a wine that has it all and is the epitome of sparkling wine.

But the Professor still has an ace up his sleeve. A Brut nature from 2015, made from 100% Baga. If the 2011 Sublime was an elegant, slender, highly saturated queen, this is the plump, curvy queen mother. The elegance, the fruit, the fullness are all there. But more and fuller.
It is not made every year. And in 2015 there were only 1000 bottles. I am happy and honoured to have tasted one of them.

Quinta dos Abibe’s wines go from clarity to clarity and it is impossible to choose a favourite. What is clear is, that when I see the label next time, I know and trust that the wine inside is well worth its price!

Maria Scharffenberg