A unique wine that leaves you wanting more
When you have a MasterClass, it is always both fun and educational to be able to present variations on the same theme. This was the case, for example, when I recently had the opportunity to give a MasterClass on Swedish wines in connection with the Berliner Wine Trophy.
Variations on a theme
The common theme was Solaris from Swedish vineyards, but the handling of the grapes and storage differed. Where Thora Vingård, that I wrote about here, has chosen maturation in steel tanks or a mixture of steel tanks and oak barrels, Flyinge Vingård has taken a completely new approach in its “Solera”.
With inspiration from Sherry
The name, and the method, is inspired by the solera system, a method used in sherry and port wine production. This means that new vintages are continuously blended with older ones and allowed to ferment and mature together. The destemmed bunches are pressed and the must is left to ferment in second-hand French oak barrels. Each year, according to the Solera system, the must is blended with previous vintages to ensure continuity and maintain high quality. This approach means that each bottle contains at least three different vintages and therefore has no vintage designation.
Full body taste
The aroma is very fruity with hints of various herbs, elderflower, white roses, quince, pear, cardamom, vanlij and apples. The flavour is fuller and more nuanced. The contact with oak is clear but never takes over, giving depth and dimension to the wine. It is a very fruity wine with flavours of yellow pears, cardamom, pineapple, net melon, butter and vanilla. But also has a clear minerality that gives freshness.
Hit or miss?
This wine became a bit of a watershed among my fellow judges in Berlin. There was a lot of interest and curiosity, and everyone emphasised that it was a technically well-made wine. But when we got to the personal flavour, opinions, as always, differed.
The discussion continued long into the evening as I brought an extra bottle to dinner. There was an impromptu wine tasting with different dishes and I have to admit that I changed my mind a bit about Solera. This is a wine with a lot of character and personality.
It absolutely works to sip on a summer evening in the bar or at the mingle party in the garden. But with food, preferably with a little creaminess, this wine blooms and really comes into its own. Restaurant owners and chefs around the table were soon involved in a discussion about which dish was the most suitable.
To be continued
Flyinge Vingård is a family-run farm whose first Solaris plants were planted in 2009. Their aim is to, to quote, “develop the unique character of our wines.” With “Solera” they have taken a big step on that path and I and many with me are waiting with excitement and curiosity for future wines from Flyinge.
/Maria Scharffenberg
Sommelier and Teacher
Share this content: