How to make the Sommelier sweat

It is always nerve-wracking. There I am, sitting across from a winemaker, or, in this case, his father. Watching him pour two glasses of wine while carefully making sure I cannot properly see the bottles. I am still at Rethaller and today it is time to taste their red wines. We are working with two grape varieties, Zweigelt and Merlot, presented in three different versions.

First up: Zweigelt.

Two glasses are placed in front of me. One is from 2023. The other from 2024. The question is: which is which? Both wines are beautifully made, with aromas of blackcurrants, cherries and a hint of chocolate. Those aromas follow through onto the palate, joined by soft black pepper, ripe strawberries and raspberries. So far, so good.

But then comes the question…Which one is older? Reinhard looks at me with a knowing little smile. Suddenly, this feels like more than just a wine tasting. No to be dramatic or anything. But, my reputation as a sommelier, and, by extension, that of the school that awarded me my diploma, seems to be at stake. (Ok, a little bit dramatic.)

The wines are remarkably similar. But in one of the glasses, the tannins, which are not particularly prominent in Zweigelt to begin with, have softened just a little further.

I make my choice. And then I wait. I admit it: when Reinhard confirms that I am right, I let out a small, deeply relieved sigh. One down.

Intermission

Next on the list is their 2024 Merlot. Light, airy and fruity. A true summer wine, happily dancing across the palate. A perfect little intermission before the final act.

The Twins

The third and final red wine is Cuvée Dana, a 50/50 blend of Zweigelt and Merlot. Having just tasted the two “pure” versions, I can quickly distinguish the two grape varieties in the blend. The lightness of the Merlot adds new dimensions to the spiciness of the Zweigelt. Together, they create a full-bodied, nuanced wine with plenty of layers and character.

The problem. Reinhard has once again poured two glasses. Two different vintages. Fortunately, this time I see him pour them. Because otherwise, I would probably have claimed that they came from the same bottle. The differences are that subtle.

The nose offers blackcurrants and the faintest hint of leather. On the palate, there are fruity strawberries, blackcurrants and spices such as sage and black pepper. Everything is there. But which one is older?

Just like twins, the wines initially seem almost exactly alike. But give them a little time, and the differences slowly begin to reveal themselves. After a few minutes, I notice that the aromas in one of the glasses have developed just a little further. They have become slightly fuller. Slightly rounder. A little more integrated.

The verdict

I make my choice. This time, however, my voice is not quite as confident. We are talking about the tiniest of nuances here. So tiny that I am not entirely sure whether they are actually there or whether my brain has simply decided that, as a sommelier, I really ought to be able to find them.

Reinhard looks at me. Then comes the smile. Once again, I have chosen the older vintage, the 2023. Two out of two and I am beginning to feel slightly more confident.

And then Reinhard brings out their Edelbrand collection. I immediately realise that my moment of confidence may have been somewhat premature.

This tasting is far from over…